Dellas family asserts Varsity’s status will ‘live on’ as management shifts
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When Jerry Dellas told his 102-year-old father, Ted that he and his cousin John, were retiring from their family business, Ted’s response reflected what he had always known: Varsity Pizza.
“My dad at 102 said, ‘Does this mean I can’t go down and get a cheeseburger?’ And I kind of laughed,” co-manager Jerry said.
On Tuesday, the Varsity — which is celebrating 100 years of operation by the Dellas family — announced that starting Dec. 1, the cousins will pass the torch to Brian and Renee Bruno, who will operate the pizza shop.
Since the Varsity opened in 1926, the South Crouse Avenue food joint has become a linchpin to Syracuse University — home to SU marching band traditions, pizza slices during the school day, New York Gov. Kathy Hochul’s workplace during her SU days and even the same orange-and-blue color scheme as the university.
Jerry said the cousins’ retirement came at a time that was fitting for change — during the Varsity’s centennial anniversary. But the change in management isn’t as large as it seems; the biggest shift came in 2022, Jerry said.
In July 2022, SU bought the Varsity’s building and trademark in a $12 million deal, Jerry said, along with other Marshall Street properties. Since then, the Dellas family has leased the space and branding from SU, an arrangement that was intended to last through July 2027.
“It was important to us that the Varsity name lives on, so that was part of the deal,” Jerry said. “You guys get the varsity name, and you know, and we want the varsity to remain open.”
Employees like Joseph Robinson were under the impression that by July 2027, the Varsity’s operations would be taken over by SU. Robinson thought he’d be on SU’s payroll and receive the university’s benefits.
SU and Brian Bruno did not immediately respond to The Daily Orange’s request for comment.
However, after Tuesday’s meeting with the Varsity’s new managers, Robinson said everything’s going to stay the same — including pay —just without the Dellas family.
Robinson said he doesn’t know how long he’ll stay at the Varsity under the new management. In the 11 years Robinson has been at the Varsity, he’s seen the Dellas family put “their heart and soul into the place.”
When the cousins were born, both of them lived above what is now Faegan’s Cafe & Pub, which they opened in 1978 and sits right next door to the Varsity. Jerry, who’s 73, and John, 71, will stay in the Syracuse area, but all they’ve ever known is the Varsity — even their first jobs were there.
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The Dellas family first arrived in Syracuse when what is now University Hill was farmland. Jerry and John’s grandfather immigrated to the United States from Greece through Ellis Island, making a pit stop in Utica before finding his way to Syracuse.
Once their grandfather landed in Syracuse, he started selling popcorn and candy near Marshall Street and the Hill, saving up money to buy a house adjacent to SU on South Crouse Avenue.
When Jerry finally purchased the house, the bottom of the building became the Varsity.
Sixty-eight-year-old Jonathan Moen, who graduated from SU in 1993 and grew up in Syracuse, said that the Varsity “looks quite a bit the same” today as it did when he was younger.
When Moen was a student, he’d grab a slice at the Varsity twice a week, whether that was after an SU football game or during the school day. Under the new management, he hopes the Varsity stays the Varsity.
“It was a constant,” Moen said. “It’s a Syracuse University tradition that I will hopefully be able to get a slice of pizza still.”
Since the Varsity’s inception, many Marshall Street businesses haven’t lasted. But even with no structure above the storefront now, the Varsity remains.
When Ted was growing up, he lived in that space with his mom, dad and three brothers, Spud, John and Nick. Ted took over the business when his father died in the 1950s. Then, in 2001, Jerry and John took it over from Ted.
Some employees, like 79-year-old Elli Darmoyslis, have worked with generations of the Dellas family. Darmoyslis, known as the Varsity’s resident “Pizza Lady,” has worked at the restaurant for 54 years and counting. When Darmoyslis learned about the new arrangement, she cried.
Elli Darmoyslis poses in front of Varsity Pizza’s oven while making the restaurant’s iconic entrees. Darmoyslis has become the restaurant’s resident “Pizza Lady” and has worked at Varsity for 54 years and counting. Eli Schwartz | Asst. Photo Editor
“I’m very upset,” Darmoyslis said. “I think I feel more bad than they do.”
At 79-years-old, Darmoyslis has moved from working full time at the Varsity to part time. Even though she’s at the Varsity for fewer hours, she loves working there — especially alongside fellow Greek immigrants. Like Jerry’s grandfather, Darmoyslis moved to the U.S. from Greece.
In fact, every Friday, Darmoyslis visits Ted, bringing him food from the Varsity — usually a cheeseburger or slice of pizza — that she picks up from her 6:30 a.m. shift. Now that she knows the Dellas family won’t run Varsity anymore, Darmoyslis’ Friday visits to Ted have become more sentimental.
“Sometimes we both cry,” Darmoyslis said. “I tell him, don’t die yet. I’m still there. I’m holding it for you.”
That’s why Darmoyslis plans on staying at the Varsity, even under the Bruno family management — at least until June when she celebrates 55 years there.
By now, Darmoyslis estimates she’s made more than 3 million pizza pies at the Varsity — she used to keep a tally record, but the number has surpassed counting. When Darmoyslis began working at the Varsity, she helped expand the pizza into what it is today. She’s stayed at the restaurant for two reasons: the customers and the Dellases.
“They don’t treat us like an employee, they treat us like a family,” Darmoyslis said.
Jerry said that it’ll be hard to see the Varsity without his family behind it, but he believes SU is supportive of keeping the Varsity what it is known as today: an extension of the university.
“We wanted to get within 100 years, and we wanted to make sure the Varsity was going to be open,” Jerry said. “We liked Brian. He wanted to keep the tradition of the Varsity and so did the university. He would seem like the right guy.”
The Brunos have owned Jamesville’s Brian’s Landing since May 2018. During the Brunos’ operation, they will bring their restaurant’s manager, Jaclyn Tesori, and head chef, Tom McNerney, to oversee the Varsity’s day-to-day operations.
Even with the Dellas family stepping away, Jerry believes the Varsity name will live on — for 100 more years.
“So someday you may see the Varsity in the Dome or around campus, and we’re all good with that because my grandfather started it in 1926, and the Varsity name lives on,” Jerry said.
